Thursday, June 8, 2017

Morris Blazer, Take 2

An eye-searing green floral Grainline Studio Morris Blazer for your viewing pleasure:


I actually started this Morris Blazer way back in March when my mom was in town. Remember we made her one, too, and had planned to take a mother-daughter green blazer photo? But I struggled with fit, got frustrated with it, and balled it up in a corner for a few months, so we never got our matchy-matchy pic. 


When I cut this Morris from this electric green floral stretch cotton sateen, I went up one size from my last Morris (from 2 years ago!), which felt a little bit tight overall, to a 16. I preemptively did a 1" full bicep adjustment on the sleeves and lengthened the sleeves by 2" to get them to full length, rather than bracelet length. Then I got to sewing...


But when I went to try on the blazer, the shoulder area was a bit of a nightmare (now that I take a closer look at my old Morris, I had a similar issue, but it was less obvious in the fabric). So much sleeve cap ease that the top of the sleeve was quite bunchy, almost gathered. Also, the shoulder seam was dropped. I also felt like the blazer was a bit high under the arm, choking my armpit.

The combination was quite unattractive on me (sorry, I should have taken a photo so you could see the "before"), and uncomfortable to boot. It was at this point that I lost patience (probably too soon), and temporarily gave up on the blazer.


I dragged it out recently, though, and the fix was really pretty simple! I cut 1/2" off the entire armscye, all the way around, and then sewed the sleeve back on. This seemed to help all of my problems at once! 


The shoulder seam is raised further up so that it's no longer dropped. The wider armscye allowed me to set the sleeve more easily, with far less of the excessive gathering at the sleeve head. It also lowered the seam from under my armpit, making it more comfortable to wear. Hurrah!


The only issue my changes seem to have caused is that the sleeves are now a little bit (well, precisely 1/2") shorter than I wanted them to be. If I make this again, I would lengthen them another 1/2" to account for that.


In the end, I am really happy with the blazer! 


The fabric is fabulous (my local shop, Hieng Yoo Huat, has been killin' recently, particularly with regard to stretch sateens!). Also, the small changes fit changes I made (going up one size, full bicep adjustment, lengthened sleeves, armscye alteration) made this significantly more comfy and better fitting than my previous version!


I'll totally wear this blazer all the time: it's one of those items that can be worn to in an office or a casual setting on the weekend. Here I've paired it with my white Cashmerette Springfield top and black Style Arc Beth pants.


Now to make myself a more neutral colored Morris. Maybe solid black or navy for the next one?

32 comments:

  1. Love it! That green is gorgeous.

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    1. Thanks! I couldn't leave that green behind... too pretty!

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  2. Beautiful blazer and so clever to fix the fit issues so easily.

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    1. Thanks! Ha, my fix was a total guess, but it worked out great, so I won't question it ;-)

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  3. Reading your post has given me an aha! moment. I had all the same issues with the shoulder and the armscye that you had, but unfortunately I turfed the jacket in a fit of pique nad wrote the pattern off for me. I might just have to go back to it now and have have another crack.

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    1. Ooooh- I hope my experience helps you to get yours to a wearable state! I totally understand your frustration... but it's fixable!

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  4. What a lovely fabric selection for a wonderful jacket! FIESTA ;)

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    1. Ha ha- it does have a fiesta feel to it, doesn't it?! Thanks!!

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  5. Well done! I didn't like how the front facing was done, did you sew it down? I didn't even noticed any issues with the sleeve, but I haven't worn my version much. I can imagine you will love this particularly after a long northern winter!

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    1. Oh, I forgot to write about that in my post. I topstitched the facing down all the way around. I have no patience for facings popping out and the topstitching is barely visible in this busy print. I think topstitching might not work as well in a ponte or softer fabric, though.

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    2. Yes, that was my issue - the Ponte didn't like the topstitching at all, I guess the answer would be lining it. Worth another try, and I will remember your superhero sleeve fix if I need it!

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  6. worth every minute of work - this is stunning! I had to mess with my Morris blazers as well, made 2, didn't keep them...you did better!

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    1. Thanks! The fabric is really the star here, but I'm glad I took the time to make the fit tweak- I am still in shock that one fix solved all three problems!

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  7. Oh my gosh, SO cute. Love that print so much. I need a bright floral blazer!

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  8. You are like a dose of pure spring here! thank you for describing your fix, I have this one in my queue and it's helpful to hear about all the little changes people make! I don't like excess sleeve head ease at. all. I wish all sleeves were sewn on nearly flat.

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    1. Yeah, I am not a fan of excess sleeve head ease at all! I am still surprised that my minor change fixed all my issues... Looking forward to seeing your Morris blazer- I think it will fit in perfectly with your handmade wardrobe!

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  9. That fabric is great! Glad the fix wasn't too hard.

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    1. Me, too ;-) This fabric is definitely the star of the show!

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  10. Just lovely - some colour in our clothes = happiness for me. Tips re the sleeve are very useful. Sam the Aussie

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    1. Glad this is helpful for you! I do love color...

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  11. Not eye searing at all - very pretty and refreshing and actually the colour really suits you!

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    1. Thanks! Ha, I say "eye-searing" in the most positive of ways... i love color ;-)

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  12. I have almost made this jacket so many times, and you have solved/resolved any issues I have with this. There's no reason for a casual jacket to have gathers at the sleeve head, and while a higher armseye can help with a range of motion, one that's too tight is just silly - it's a jacket, not a shirt! And that fabric is just out of this world! You're a total babe for this!

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    1. Glad it was helpful! I sorta guessed at a solution to the problems and was delighted when it worked. :-)

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  13. First of all, I love it. 2nd of all, nice armscye fix!! I will definitely keep that in mind. I've got the pattern & the fabric in my queue.

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    1. Thanks!! I hope you don't end up with the same issue I did, and if you do, that my fix works for you, too!

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  14. Love the fabric! Stretch cotton sateen is really comfortable for the Jalie Eleanor pant, wish I was there to see the selection for this purpose. Thanks for the info on BKK fabric stores and notions. I have done some fabric shopping in Chiang Mai with some success. Your tips for China Town in BKK sound like a winner!

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    1. Thanks! I love stretch sateen- it works for so many different types of garments.

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  15. I love this! Awesome print. I have printed this pattern but am yet to make it up.

    Sounds like your armscye problems were well sorted.

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